You should know that when the autofocus point selection is in automatic, most of the time the camera will try to focus on the closest object. This is “relatively intelligent” behavior, since the subject is often in the foreground. But not always, and that is the problem. Imagine that you want to make a blurry foreground for example...
And if he does not manage to focus on the nearest object (too dark for example), he will try it on the next object. And so on... In short, you may take a long time to have the focus where you want it. Even not to have it at all!
I'm not even talking about the hassle if you use the continuous autofocus mode!
And then beyond the purely technical difficulties, I imagine that if you read the blog, it is to have the control of your device, and to do without a good part of the automatisms, in any case of those which restrain you. As I said above, it would be totally illogical...
But now that you're convinced, you must be wondering how to handle this new setting, you who are just learning to shoot in Creative Modes. Don't panic, you'll see, it's not that complicated!
Best practices to take full advantage of it
Use the central collimator
The central collimator is always the most precise (by design). If you use it systematically, you will have the advantage of not having to think about it (which can be useful in “emergency” situations), to benefit from increased precision, and generally to take less time to focus.
But you are going to say to me: “yes but you always advise not to put the subject in the center, so what do I do if I use the central collimator? “
Well, I'm teasing you a bit because the answer is obvious: the focus-cropping technique, which I will not detail again, since I do it in the article on autofocus (I told you that it was necessary read it).
Only this technique has its limits, in 2 cases mainly (if you see others, leave a comment):
- In continuous autofocus mode ( AI Servo or AF-C ): and yes, in this mode you cannot lock the focus, so you are stuck, you cannot take the picture.
- At shallow depth of field: In this case, the movement you make to crop may cause your focus to move, and when the depth of field is shallow, it shows very quickly, or at least it produces a slightly smaller image. clear. This problem is very real: I have already experienced it, and seen what can be found on the web, I am not the only one.
But there is a solution that must jump out at you:
Use other collimators
How did you guess? You are too strong!
More seriously, using a collimator located on your subject (on the eye for a portrait for example) is obviously the solution to this problem. Except that in this case, you will have to select it each time, which may be tedious:
- the eye must be removed from the viewfinder
- then press the selection button
- then select the right collimator
- then validate the selection
- then put the eye back in the viewfinder
The best compromise is to use a way of changing the collimator little known to the beginner who has not read the manual of his camera (me the 1st when I had my first reflex in my hands): the dial.
The great thing is that you can keep your eye in the viewfinder. You press the button that allows you to select the collimators (so you have to know its location by heart, yes!), And in the viewfinder the selected collimator lights up with intense crimson light.
And yes, the best part is that you don't even have to exit this mode by pressing the button again, it is done automatically by pressing the shutter button halfway.
I imagine that quite a few of you already know this simple technique to put into practice, but it has saved me so many clichés since the distant day when I discovered it that I felt it essential to put it forward. again.
It's okay if at the very beginning you are a little confused, don't panic, it will come with a little practice.
For more information, please visit https://www.dzofilm.com/